Amritsar is a city in the state of Punjab and a mere 28 kilometres from the border of Pakistan. Punjab was split in two during Partition, so there is now Indian Punjab and Pakistani Punjab. Amritsar is most famous as the holy city of Sikhs and is home to the spectacular Golden Temple, one of the most sacred pilgrim spots for Sikhs from all over the world. The splendour and serenity of the Golden Temple is truly breathtaking and whatever one’s religious persuasion, it will not fail to impress. The temple takes on a magical atmosphere in the evening, as the temple lights up on its magnificent lake and worshippers take their positions at the lakeside, alongside flickering candles
Amritsar is also home to the impressive and thought-provoking Partition Museum, which tastefully tells the traumatic story of the partition of India in 1947, leading to the division of British ruled India into two separate nations: India and Pakistan. The partition led to one of the largest mass migrations in history, with people crossing the border in both directions, according to their religion – most Muslims to Pakistan and most Hindus and Sikhs to India. Widespread violence, bloodshed, displacement and death occurred, with estimates of between 200,000 and 2 million lives lost in this pivotal event.
Whilst visiting Amritsar, the Wagah Border Ceremony is a must-see. It takes place daily at the Wagah-Attari border, which is approximately 30 kilometres from Amritsar itself. The ceremony is also known as the Beating Retreat Ceremony and is conducted by the Indian Border Security Force and the Pakistani Rangers, on either side of a gate separating India from Pakistan. The nightly ceremony involves elaborate drills and high kicks in incredible synchronicity and flag-lowering ritual in sync to symbolise the end of the day and mutual respect. There is plenty of loud patriotic music on both sides, with a Master of Ceremonies encouraging chanting. All in all, it is an incredible spectacle to observe and tourists are ushered straight to the VIP seats at the front of the stadium, giving a fabulous view of the proceedings. Expect to be face-painted with the Indian flags by patriotic locals!
No trip to the Punjab would be complete without sampling some of their famous food, including Chole Bhature (spicy chickpeas served with deep-fried, fluffy bread), Dal Makhani (black lentils with butter and cream), Paneer Tikka (paneer cheese cubes marinated in yoghurt and spices and then grilled) with mint chutney, Rajma Chawal (red kidney beans cooked in a tomato-based gravy and served with rice), and all washed down by a delicious lassi (yoghurt based drink which can be served sweet or salty and even topped with cream – the most popular option!)
