When I was asked to write about Rajasthani food, I jumped for joy. ‘Easy peasy lemon squeezy,’ said I. Why? Because I can talk about food until the cows come home. Food is my favorite subject. As a child growing up in Asia, food was a big part of my life. Street food was completely normal and delicious.The aromatic smells meant that I was constantly drooling, which I found a pleasure. Food was easily accessible and readily available. My father became the cook of the household once we realized how much of a good cook he was, and my mother was very pleased to hang up the apron (between you and me, I was too). My father loved curry, and being in Singapore, the spices were readily available and fresh. Nowadays, when I step off the plane in Delhi and whisk myself off to beautiful Rajasthan, I am transported back in time to my childhood again, and the wonderful smells of the street food or to my childhood kitchen. I can almost see my father with his apron on, pouring himself a glass of wine and taking great pride in his cooking.
Now, let’s talk about Rajasthani food. My personal favorite would be the Dal (lentil curry) with baati, which is unleavened bread. It is simple but so delicious. If you fancy a dal baati churma or any other delicacy from Rajasthan, then The Leela Palace in Jaipur is the place to go. If you are in Udaipur, you could try the Mucchad Uncle Kitchen.
Even in Rajasthan, there are regional differences. In Jaipur, the flavors are spicy, but in Udaipur, the curries are milder. I found this really interesting; I was not expecting it.
Many people have heard of ‘Laal maas,’ which is a spicy Rajasthani meat curry made with yogurt, hot spices, and pots of garlic, but have you heard of ‘Safed Maas’?. It is made with almonds, cashews, yogurt, and meat. The best place to find authentic Safed Mass is in Jaipur. If you find yourself in Jaipur and want to try this dish, then head on down to Handi restaurant and Spice Court.
In Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, and Bikaner, the signature dish is Ker Sangri. Ker means berries, and Sangri means beans. This is a deliciously spicy dish. The spiciness comes from dried red chilies and chili powder, and the tanginess comes from the dried mango powder. You should try it with Bajre ki roti, which is a flatbread. If you are in Jodhpur, try this dish at Indique or Jhankar Choti Haveli. If you are in Jaisalmer, you could try it at Choki Dhani (I love this place) or Suryagarh restaurant.
Another popular dish from the Mewar region of Rajasthan is Banjara Murgh. This is a chicken curry simmered in yogurt and dry spices over an open fire. The name ‘Banjara’ means ‘nomadic tribe.’ It has a delicious smoky flavor and a very earthy taste. The best Banjara Murgh is in the cities of Udaipur and Chittorgarh. In Udaipur, you could try the Royal Repast (Poppy by Royal Repast) and Natraj Dining Hall. If you are in Chittorgarh, you could try Chicken City or Rajmal Banjara.
Here are a few dishes to get on with. Please write in and let us know how you get on or if you have any recommendations. We would love to hear them.